Lijiang and Jade Dragon Mountains

After a wonderful stay in Dali, I headed north to Lijiang. I was bracing myself, since many people had told me that although it is a beautiful town, that it is choked with chinese tourists. I was pleasantly surprised with Lijiang. I am staying at a guesthouse run by Mama Naxi, a hospitable, warm-hearted woman who constantly refers to herself in the third person ("Mama want you to stay longer! Mama no want you pay yet!"). Mama cooks a mean eggless banana pancake ("No egg! No problem! Mama cook without egg!") and also offers a feast of a meal every evening for less than a dollar in which she supplies the table with an endless stream of delicious dishes ("Mama say you full when Mama stop cooking!").

For those of you here for Mama Naxi's Address, I would suggest you try the following:
Address: 78 Wuyi StreetE-mail:
Phone: +(86)-888-5185930/5100700

If you call her, she will send someone to pick you up within 15 minutes.

The trick to Lijiang is figuring out the chinese package tours' schedules. Chinese tourists don't like straying far from their guides so, if you time it right - and avoid the standardized route - you'll have the town to yourself. And so, I have been able to enjoy Lijiang and its tiny, winding streets, gurgling canals, and gorgeous architecture. The town is nestled at the foot of the romantically named Jade Dragon Mountains, at the foot of a 5500m peak. I'm told this mountain is amazing, but due to the clouds, I have yet to see it. The town winds its way up Lion's Back Hill, and from the top you are rewarded with a beautiful view of wooden, arched rooftops, a lush valley, and deep-green mountains. The town plays host to a number of minorities, whose costumes add vivid dashes of color to the atmosphere.

Tomorrow, I head off to Tiger Leaping Gorge for a two day hike through one of the world's deepest gorges. Should be fun!