May 21, 2006

Kathmandu

I'm in Asia. And I've seen Mt. Everest.

It only took 40 hrs to get to Nepal, but that included an 11hr stopover in Bangkok. Thanks to the considerate people at the NYC subway, I almost didn't make it. Despite having budgeted 2.5 hours to get to the airport (for a trip that should have taken less than an hour), I only got to the check-in line with five minutes to spare, since the friendly subway guys decided to do construction on the airport line. Great.

United, ever the considerate, service-friendly airline, insisted on checking my bag all the way through to Nepal, despite my overnight stopover in Bangkok. As I protested, the unionized BattleAxe behind the counter retorted "look, you can either argue, or you can make your flight. Which will it be? Oh, and by the way, you don't have a seat, so you'll have to try your luck at the gate. Have a nice flight." I made my flight and was lucky, since the woman at the gate decided to give me extra legroom in Economy Plus.

I continuously cursed my buddy JK during the 13hr flight from JFK to Japan, since he will be flying Singapore Airlines to HK and enjoying their superior, friendly service. Meanwhile, I was condemned to receiving ladels of tasteless slop grumpily served by 45yr-old unionized BattleAxes (who mostly reminded me of Marg's sister Selma).

Japan Airport was rather disappointing since I was quarantined in United's section of the airport. No hot Japanese Stewardesses. No electronic gadget stores. And no singing, heated toilets. It seems, however, that United is not constrained by unions on its asian routes, as the service between Toyko and Bangkok was markedly better. The food was slightly better (although it was still American slop), but what really mattered was that the stewardesses were all young, pretty, and smiling.

It was on the flight from Bangkok to Kathmandu that I caught a glimpse of Mt. Everest. I had taken another traveler's advice and sat on the right side of the plane and was rewarded with a spectacular view of the peak piercing the clouds. Fantastic!

At the Nepalese Border, I endured bureaucratic inefficiency as three people filled out the same visa form in triplicate and double checked their work. Good times.

As one of the only backpackers, I was immediately set upon by the horde of touts outside the terminal. "The ATM is that way!" one yelled, tugging me to the left. "You need taxi, only 100 rupees!" another shrieked as he pulled me to the right. "I have a reservation" was enough to get most of the commission-seeking touts away. I towered over all of them, and managed to wade my way through and eventually find a guy from the guesthouse where Shazz was staying. I was given the royal welcome at the Kathmandu Guest House, where Shazz had already established himself as a celebrity and mover and shaker.

Kathmandu is a city that attacks the senses (especially after 40hrs of travel). Vehicle Horns (and the sound of 250cc motors) punctuate the constant Hindi Music, while incense mingles with the scent of burning corn and sewage. Women are dressed in beautiful, ornate colorful saris, and Darbhar Square is full of gorgeous temples. A constant mass of humanity seethes past, carrying fruits, textiles, or crying children while others while away the time on the steps of historic sites, watching. Most people ignored Shazz and I, partly because we had the same skin color as them, but mostly because they didn't necessarily see us as walking wallets. As we walked by storefronts, I was shocked by how few owners yelled out "My friend, have a look!" Compared to other places I've been, this place is downright laid back.

1 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

dude, United has hot stewardesses.....no way!
-sinman in brooklyn

9:33 PM  

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