May 31, 2006

The Friendship Highway

I've arrived safely in Gyantse, a town that is famous for its Kumbum (a six-level, domed set of chapels). The ride was incredible and it took two days to get here, with a stop off in the middle of nowhere. We have been driving on the Friendship Highway, which is more of a muddy, dirt road that weaves its way through the mountains and over some precarious passes. We have been making full use of the 4x4 feature of our Land Cruiser, since we forded a couple of rivers today. Our driver is amazing. He really knows his vehicle.

Today's ride took us from 4500m up over a pass at 5050m that was below a stunning 7100m glacier. The driver stopped at around 4850m and we hiked up to 5004m, which is officially the highest I have ever been on foot. My lungs were bursting, my heart was racing, but it was worth it. A few days ago I couldn't even walk 100m at 3600m, but my body is now fully acclimatized to the altitude.

The people here in Gyantse are wonderful. On seeing me, people will grin happily and yell out "hul-lo! hullo!" Small children have followed me for 100m, inspecting me with wide-eyes. Old ladies continue to stick out their tongues at me. No one has asked me for money. I found spicy Sichuan food. Life is good.

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