Back in Kathmandu

Who would have thought that I'd refer to Kathmandu as "back in Civilization?" Yet, here I am, comfortably shaved and clean after a hot shower. My lungs are thanking me for the abundant oxygen, and this time tomorrow, I will once again have clean clothes. The good folks at the Kathmandu Guest House greeted me like family, inquiring about my trip to Tibet, excitedly telling me about how Shazz had stopped by earlier in the week, and finally rewarding my loyalty with a large room for half the price we had paid last week (despite the fact that the place is now twice as busy as before).

Yet, I miss Tibet. Kathmandu is a hot, chaotic, polluted anti-thesis to the quiet, lonely plains of the Tibetan Plateau. After five days of gazing upon arid, desolate peaks, the lush, verdant humidity of the Kathmandu valley was a shock to the system. So was the traffic, the constant honking, and the perilous, almost suicidal driving habits. I appreciated Tibetan Driver even more after placing my life in the hands of a maniac for the 4 hour mountaineous sprint from the border to Kathmandu.

After watching the sunrise over Everest, we left for Nepal. Today I descended 3800m, a vertical drop that took me from the 5124m Taro-la pass, with its amazing views over a Himalayan paradise, down to the 1300m Kathmandu Valley. Our drive took us from a lifeless desert, down through a rainforest jungle with waterfalls, raging rivers, and greenery that left me speechless. I miss the thrill of being the only one on the road, one of the few to enjoy the views, the silence, and the dusty plains of Tibet. For hours on end, it was just our Land Cruiser, perhaps a lonely shepherd and his herd, and the occasional friendly settlement of waving children. Then, we arrived at the Nepali border, and suddenly there were people everywhere, begging, touting, and pushing. Thank god the food is excellent. I am looking forward to a good tandoori tonight, and puri and batetas tomorrow morning.